archives: food & recipes
A couple years ago Michael and I shot William Werner’s
Matcha Snickerdoodles for Bon Appétit’s holiday issue (they’re so good, btw)
and ever since I’ve looked for reasons to bake with matcha.
That got me to making this cake once and then again and again
which, got me to thinking that maybe Michael and I should shoot it.
So we did and it was delicious. Find the recipe below.
Pierre Hermé’s Cake au Thé Vert Matcha, Yuzu, et Azuki
From Pierre Hermé book, PASTRIES. Stewart, Tabori & Chang, New York 2011, page 31. If I made this cake again, I would skip the azuki gelatin. It's a fun component to try and the flavour and texture is interesting, but I love the cake itself, soaked in the syrup. If I were in a rush, I'd skip both the glaze and beans and make only the cake, being sure to soak it well. I'd even venture to serve it as dessert just like that. The syrup soaks into the texture of the crumb and the result is this perfect medley of citrus and tea.
- Prepare the azuki gelatin. In a saucepan, bring the still mineral water to a boil with the lime juice and agar agar, beating well. Remove from the heat and add the lime zest and ginger into the mixture. Mix well, gradually incorporating the azuki beans. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Line two 4-inch-square (10 cm) gratin dishes with plastic wrap and pour the liquid into it. Refrigerate for 2 hours or until set, then transfer to the freezer.
- Prepare the matcha and yuzu batter. Sift the cake flour, baking powder, and match tea together. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the plastic blade, process the sugar, salt, and eggs for 5 minutes. Add the cream, butter, and yuzu juice. Process for 5 minutes. Remove the dough from the bowl of the food processor and, beating by hand, incorporate the sifted flour mixture.
- Preheat the oven to 300˚F (150˚C). Butter and flour an 11-by-4-inch (28-by-11-cm) loaf pan.
- Slice the azuki gelatin into 20 thin strips. Pour a quarter of the cake batter into the pan. Over the full length of the pan, align two rows of gelatin strips spaced evenly. Each row should be made of three strips, one of which should be trimmed slightly to fit the length of the pan. Make two other layers of the batter and gelatin the same way. There will be two extra strips that do not need to be used. Cover with the remaining batter and smooth the top.
- Place the cake in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Give the cake a quarter turn and bake for another 30 minutes. Test for doneness by inserting a knife blade into the centre of the cake; it should come out clean. Unmold the cake onto a wire rack and set it aside to cool.
- Prepare the yuzu syrup. In a saucepan, bring the still mineral water to a boil with the sugar and yuzu juice.
- Place a shallow baking dish under the rack with the cooled cake. Dip the cake in the boiling yuzu syrup three times, placing it back on the wire rack after each time. Set the baking sheet (with the cake and wire rack) in the refrigerator to allow the cake to drain.
- Prepare the white chocolate and matcha glaze. using a serrated knife, chop the white chocolate couverture and place it in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water to melt; the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water. Melt the couverture, then remove 1 tablespoon and mix it with the powdered matcha tea. Combine this mixture with the oil, then add it to the remaining melted coverture. Remove the cake from the refrigerator. When the temperature of the couverture has reached between 104˚F and 113˚F (40˚C and 45˚C), pour the glaze, all at once, over the cake. Set aside and allow the glaze to set.
- Dust the cake with powdered match tea and arrange the white-gold leaf in the centre (I skipped this step).
Love this building.
This place is cute.
This story is great.
I can’t wait to make this.
Love this image.
This cat pool is neat.
I think I’ll make this pizza dough on the weekend.
Have you seen our new plates? They’re sold out now (except in the smallest size) but we’ll be getting more soon.
Photos: Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott
We’re updating the Herriott Grace Shop today at 3pm EST!
So many new and beautiful things.
I think you’ll like this cake. It’s super simple and it’s good.
It reminds me of coffee cakes I ate as a kid, only better.
The crumble is finer and there’s more of it, the ratio is different.
And the fruit layer is thicker, making for the perfect amount of fruit in each bite.
It’s the type of cake you’ll want to take on a picnic. Or pack for lunch wrapped in waxed paper.
Or just eat, still warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Fergus Henderson's Rhubarb Crumble Cake (made with pluots!)
This cake is from the excellent book, The Complete Nose to Tail by Fergus Henderson and Justin Piers Gellatly. I've made it twice, both times with pluots. Since pluots are out of season now, I think I'd try it with apples (as suggested in the original recipe).
- 3 stalks rhubarb (or equivalent weight in pluots, as I did)
- 1/4 cup caster sugar
- 1/4 cup Demerara sugar
- grated zest of 1 orange (I omitted this but added lemon instead)
- 1/2 cup soft unsalted butter
- scant 2/3 cup castor sugar
- 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 1/3 cups self-rising flour, sifted
- scant 1/4 cup full-fat milk
- (I also added the contents of one vanilla bean, though this is optional)
- 1 cup plain flour
- 3 ounces unsalted butter, cut into cubes
- 1/2 cup Demerara sugar
- 1/4 cup ground almonds
- a pinch of salt
- First top and tail the rhubarb, give it a good wash and cut it into slices about 3/4" thick. Mix it with the sugars and the orange zest and set aside for 30 minutes.
- For the cake mix, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Gradually add the beaten eggs, bit by bit to prevent curdling. Then fold in the sifted flour and last of all the mix in the milk. Put to one side.
- For the crumble mix, sift the flour into a bowl, add the butter and rub the together with your fingertups until they look like large breadcrumbs. Stir in the Demerara sugar, ground almonds, flaked almonds and salt.
- Butter a deep 8" springform cake tin and line the base and sides with baking parchment. Spread the cake mix evenly over the base of the tin, then place the rgubarb on top. Sprinkle the crumble mix evenly over the base of the tin, then place the rhubarb on top. Sprinkle the crunble mix over the rhubarb. Place in an oven prepared to 375˚F and bake for about 1 1/2 hours, covering the top loosely with foil if it gets too dark. The cake is ready when a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Serve warm, with custard or extra-thick Jersey cream.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO USE RHUBARB; YOU COULD USE:
- Apples, Apricots, Quinces (you will need to cook them first), Nectarines, Gooseberries, Pears and ginger, Plums (I used Pluots), Damsons
dreaming of a trip to hawaii
and one to venice too
this cake (i made this one and you probably should too, it’s really great)
love this image of yossy’s
the bowl in 2nd photo is from the HG shop and it’s a beauty
photos: michael graydon + nikole herriott
These days I eat less bread than I used to.
Not no bread, but less.
And I try to stick to the good stuff when I do.
Like brioche, I love brioche.
So when I found out my friend Tara was going to include a recipe for bostocks in her new book, I knew I had to try it.
She’s a bit of a magician in the kitchen and we have a history of searching out bostocks together.
Plus I’ve made her chocolate chip cookies and they’re fantastic.
Same goes for her fried chicken, her pickled strawberry preserves and her house burger sauce.
All without surprise, excellent.
Anyway, brioche (and bostocks) come with a fair bit of nostalgia for me.
They remind me of my first days working in a pastry kitchen.
You learn brioche (the foundation of bostocks) early on,
it’s one of those basic recipes you have to master, like pâte à choux or crème pâtissiére.
It’s also really versatile as far as application goes.
Perfect the day you make it, but equally great days later.
If you haven’t made (or had) bostocks before,
they’re essentially thick pieces of brioche,
soaked in simple syrup (Tara’s has orange blossom water and citrus rind)
and spread with almond cream (often garnished with sliced almonds or even dried fruit).
In Tara’s recipe, the almond cream puffs up around the almonds themselves and melds into the soaked bread.
The result is a centre that is someplace between bread,
custard and a slice of cake, with the edges feeling crispy like a piece of toast.
They’re fragrant, but not overpowering, and perfect in hand on the way out the door.
From the Seven Spoons Cookbook, Ten Speed Press, 2015. I've used both a traditionally shaped loaf as well as a round and prefer the texture of bostocks made of round slices. If you're making your own brioche try using a coffee tin for baking.
- 150 g granulated sugar (3/4 cup)
- 180 ml water (3/4 cup)
- 1 t orange blossom water
- 4-6 strips citrus zest (lemon, orange, yuzu), each 2.5 cm (1") thick
- 115 g unsalted butter, softened (1/2 cup)
- 115 g confectioners' sugar (1 cup)
- 100 g almond meal (1 cup)
- 1 T all-purpose flour
- Seeds scraped from a vanilla bean
- 2 t rum or brandy (optional)
- Scant 1/4 t almond extract
- 1/4 t fine-grain sea salt
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 8 to 10 slices of stale brioche, each around 2.5cm thick (1")
- Sliced almonds, for sprinkling (optional)
- Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
- To make the syrup, stir together the granulated sugar, water, orange flower water, and zest in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for up to 1 week. Remove the zest before using.
- To make the almond cream, beat the butter in a bowl with a silicone spatula or a hand mixer until the butter holds a peak when the spatula is lifted. Sift in the confectioners' sugar, then fold to incorporate. Beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the bottom and sides of bowl. Sift in half the almond meal, stir to incorporate, then sift in the rest with the flour. Mix again then stir in the vanilla, rum, almond extract, and salt. Pour in the egg and stir until creamy. Transfer to a bowl, then press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent it from drying out. Refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours, or up to 3 days ahead.
- To assemble the bostocks, preheat the oven to 375˚F (190˚C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, then arrange the brioche on top. Brush syrup all over the slices until saturated. If any syrup remains, wait until the first soaking is absorbed , then brush again. Spread one cut side with almond cream, all the way to the edges, then sprinkle with almonds. Bake until the cream is puffed and brown, and the brioche is deeply toasted, 18 to 22 minutes. Let the bostocks cool for 5 minutes on their tray. Sift a light flurry of confectioners' sugar over all, then all that's left is the eating.
+ some things I like:
This rug, this rug and this one
I just ordered this book
I can’t wait to try these
My baking board
I think we should get this for our patio/garden
And Rosebud Multi-Use Oil
PHOTOS: Nikole Herriott
We took a few days off recently and went to our family cabin on Qualicum Beach.
We drank piña coladas, ate oysters and kind of lazed around in the sun.
It was surprisingly hot when we were there,
weather I feel like I haven’t felt in BC since I was a kid.
I cut a pile of rhubarb from my parent’s backyard
before making the drive up island.
I brought along the Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Book (shot by the super talented Gentl & Hyers)
for the task of making a rhubarb pie and was SO pleased with the result!
I love that the Elsen sisters suggest to freeze the chopped rhubarb
and then thaw and drain before making the pie.
Such a great tip to get a little extra juice to drain from the stalks.
It’s late in the season for rhubarb I’m told, but there was no shortage at my parents place.
I noticed only afterward that the recipe is quite similar to the one Jen Causey
made for my, For the Love of Pie series back in 2012,
also by the Elsen sisters, but I’m including the recipe here
just because I think it’s worth mentioning again.
And if you don’t have it already, go buy the book, it’s great.
THE FOUR & TWENTY BLACKBIRDS RHUBARB PIE
This recipe came from, THE FOUR & TWENTY BLACKBIRDS PIE BOOK by Emily Elsen & Melissa Elsen published by Grand Central. It makes one 9-inch pie that serves 8-10 people. While it's perfect just as it is, I prefer to omit the allspice and ground ginger in favour of the contents of a vanilla bean or a teaspoon of vanilla extract. I think it's best served at room temperature with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, but a spoonful of crème fraîche would be nice too.
- FOR THE CRUST
- Stir the flour, salt, and sugar together in a large bowl. Add the butter pieces and coat with the flour mixture using a bench scraper or spatula. With a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture, working quickly until mostly pea-size pieces of butter remain (a few larger pieces are okay; be careful not to overblend).
- Combine the water, cider vinegar, and ice in a large measuring cup or small bowl. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the ice water mixture over the flour mixture, and mix and cut it in with a bench scraper or spatula until it is fully incorporated. Add more of the ice water mixture, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time using the bench scraper or your hands (or both) to mix until the dough comes together in a ball, with some dry bits remaining. Squeeze and pinch with your fingertips to bring all the dough together, sprinkling dry bits with more small drops of the ice water mixture, if necessary, to combine. Shape the dough into a flat disc, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight, to give the crust time to mellow. Divide the dough in half before shaping each portion into flat discs.
- Wrapped tightly, the dough can be refrigerated for 3 days or frozen for 1 month.
- Have ready and refrigerated one pastry-lined 9-inch pan and pastry top.
- Combine the rhubarb, brown and granulated sugars, allspice, cardomom, ginger, salt, and arrowroot in a large bowl and mix throuroghly. Stir in the lemon juice, egg, and bitters. Pour the filling into the refrigerated pie shell, arrange the lattice or pastry round on top, and crimp as desired.
- Chill the pie in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes to set the pastry. Meanwhile, position the oven racks in the bottom rack, and preheat the oven to 425˚F.
- Brush the pastry with the egg wash to coat; if your pie has a lattice top, be careful not to drag the filling onto the pastry (it will burn). Sprinkle the pastry with the desired amount of demerara sugar.
- Place the pie on a rimmed baking sheet on the lowest rack of the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the pastry is set and beginning to brown. Lower the oven temperature to 375˚F, move the pie to the centre oven rack, and continue to until the pastry is a deep golden brown and the juices are bubbling throughout, 30 to 35 minutes longer.
- Allow to cool completely on a wire rack, 2 to 3 hours. Serve slightly warm or not at room temperature.
- The pie will keep in the refrigerator for 3 days or at room temperature for 2 days.
I can’t wait for this chocolate chip cookie recipe from Tara’s book.
Michael and I shot the new Bon Appétit Cover, find it on newsstands now!
This place looks amazing.
The design and photos in this story from the current print issue of Afar Magazine are beautiful.
Michael snapped this in NYC the other day, I love it.
This place looks nice.
And we updated the shop last week, have a look.
Photos: Nikole Herriott
We have a small strawberry patch in our garden.
So small that it’s not really a patch at all,
more like a few strawberry plants in mismatched pots
on a small deck to the side of our place.
We don’t get an abundance of berries,
but enough that we can eat one or two a day
or if we wait, enough to have with breakfast on the weekend.
That works as I’ve been thinking of breakfast a lot lately.
We have new maple syrup over in the shop (something we’re pretty excited about!)
so I’ve been fitting it into cooking and baking whenever I can.
From that came the idea of these sweet crêpes with strawberries and maple syrup.
I’m sort of a traditionalist when it comes to sweet crêpes,
but I like that this recipe has beer, something I hadn’t tried before.
The result is really nice texture and a pretty sort of lacy feel (you can see it well in this photo).
And they’re simple to make.
I found that 1/3 of a cup of mix worked well
when cooked on an 11″ cast crêpe pan.
If you don’t have one, I recommend this one.
On the crêpes in the photo,
I topped with fresh cut strawberries,
a little sour cream and a generous pour of maple syrup.
You should try it, it’s so delicious.
This recipe is by Jehnee Rains but I came to it via The Kitchn. I've made it several times now and found that I like the crêpes a little sweeter than the recipe calls for (I increased the sugar from a 1/2 teaspoon to 2-3 tablespoons and added a teaspoon of vanilla).
- 2 cups warm milk
- 1/4 cup melted butter
- 1 1/4 cup flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon sugar (I used 3T instead)
- 3 eggs
- 3/4 tablespoon oil
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1/2 cup beer (any light lager beer will work)
- Melt the butter and heat the milk to warm, over the stove or in a microwave. Meanwhile, mix flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer (or in a large bowl with a whisk ready). Make a well in the dry ingredients, pour eggs and oil into the well and beat on medium speed with whisk using the mixer, or vigorously with your hand-held whisk. Slowly add the melted butter and milk mixture until batter becomes uniform in texture.
- Now pour batter over a fine-toothed sieve into another medium-sized bowl, pressing any lumps through with your fingers. Stir in beer, until just evenly incorporated (don't overmix). Refrigerate the batter, covered with plastic, for 8 hours or overnight, if you can.
- Pour about 1/4 to 1/3 cup batter onto a smoking-hot pan, swirling the batter to create an even surface. Add a little more batter if needed. Little holes are okay while crêpe cooks — just 2 minutes on the first side (peek to see if golden brown color is there), then about 30 seconds on other side. Keep warm with sheets of parchment paper in between each crêpe, in a low oven, about 200 degrees until serving.
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