archives: food & recipes
More days than not, Tara and I talk about food.
We talk about porridge and grain and how flaky biscuits can be.
We talk about writing a good recipe (She’s working on her first book! With biscuits included.)
and what we’re making that day.
We talk about ice cream and cake and just about everything in between.
And we also talk about making more time to work together.
And so as a start of things to come,
find Tara’s recipe for RASPBERRY APPLE CRUMBLE.
It’s cold here still,
so while we’re actually really yearning for spring,
crumble still seems to fit.
It’s perfect day-of warm, with a dollop of cream
but it’s also great for travelling.
Let it rest overnight before cutting into wide slices
and wrapping snuggly in plastic wrap.
I so like the idea of crumble for dessert and then crumble the next day at lunch.
RASPBERRY & APPLE CRUMBLE by Tara O'Brady
I make a crumble almost every March. Not always with fresh fruit — at this time of year we’re still waiting for the snow to melt and the first forced rhubarb at the market — but often out of frozen berries, in an attempt to conjure up that springtime feeling.
This crumble tucks raspberries with storage apples underneath an intentionally-generous cover of oat streusel. It is without cinnamon, or nutmeg, or any of those wintery spices, instead fragrant with vanilla and drops of almond extract. The filling has a scant amount of sugar and a good amount of lemon juice, so the raspberries retain their twang and keep the whole business bright.
As a bonus while it bakes, the crumble makes the house smell like cookies and jam. It’s a fine way to say goodbye to the cold.
- 3/4 cup / 170 g unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan
- 1/2 cup / 100 g granulated sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
- 1/8 teaspoon almond extract
- 1 1/2 cups / 150 g large-flake oats
- 1 1/4 cups / 160 g all-purpose flour
- Juice from half a lemon, about 2 tablespoons
- 2 1/4 pounds / 1 kg mixed baking apples, about five apples, see note
- 1/3 cup / 66 g granulated sugar
- 2 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 1/4 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
- 1 plump vanilla bean, split down its length
- 1 1/4 pounds / 566 g frozen raspberries
- Sweetened sour cream, whipped crème fraîche, pouring cream, custard (hot or cold) or ice cream
- Preheat an oven to 375°F / 190° C with the rack in the lower third. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Make the streusel. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attached, cream together the butter sugar, salt and almond extract on medium-high speed until fluffy, around 2 minutes. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and turn the machine to low. Tip in the oats and flour all at once, and let the machine run until the dry ingredients are incorporated and the mixture is in medium to small clumps, 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Set aside in a cool spot or covered in the fridge while you get on with the filling.
- Grease a 3-quart capacity baking dish with butter. Pour the lemon juice into a large bowl. Peel, core and slice the apples thinly. Add the slices to the bowl as they are cut, turning them in the juice to prevent browning.
- In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch with sugar, salt and seeds scraped from the vanilla bean, reserving the pod. Sprinkle the mixture over the apples and and toss gently until the dry ingredients look to disappear. Carefully fold in the raspberries. Tumble the fruit into the prepared baking dish and tuck in the vanilla bean. Crumble the streusel over the filling in a fairly even layer. Place the dish on the lined baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven until the streusel is golden and the juices are bubbling thickly, around 45 minutes. Let stand at least 15 minutes before serving.
- NOTE: Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Russet, Pink Cripps, Mutsus are all excellent for baking.
- Crumbles are ideal for using up just-about-overripe fruit or whatever flours are left in the baking cupboard. That said, keep proportion in mind; for this intentionally streusel-heavy recipe that means the topping is almost half the weight of the filling. And for the streusel itself, it is an approximate ratio, again by weight, of 1 part butter to 1 part oats to 1 part flour. Keeping that overall balance in mind, I’ll often add alternative flours to the streusel, say whole wheat, buckwheat or spelt for a portion of the all-purpose. Blackberries or rhubarb can be swapped in for some of the fruit, adjusting the sugar accordingly.
- Enough for 6 to 8 servings.
To me, the best kind of cake marks celebration.
Big or small, it’s an exclamation point on time well spent.
Nostalgic and celebratory at once.
I don’t know why exactly,
but this one, the chocolate chip mint, (recipe below)
makes me feel ten again.
With a fondness for swing sets and birthday parties and backyard pools.
For watermelon slices (with seeds) and summers gone by.
For punch through straws and cheezies in a bowl.
For paper plates and plastic forks and eating lunch outside.
And for cake, simply for the sake of it.
Photo by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott, food & recipe by Tara O’Brady all for Kinfolk Magazine
Recipe by Tara O'Brady for Kinfolk magazine. Slightly adapted for use here by Tara.
Making an ice cream cake takes consideration. A good freezer is essential, along with generous lead-time, and there’s a case for using store bought ice cream—while homemade has its merits, the multiple components here would require an exceptional amount of stirring, chilling and churning, and that’s before we even get to the cake’s assembly. What’s more, store bought ice cream is more forgiving to work with than homemade when it comes to refreezing solidly. Still, don’t dawdle.
Makes a 9-inch cake (photographed cake is smaller)
- 1 quart vanilla ice cream
- 9 ounces chocolate wafer cookies, crushed to crumbs in a food processor
- 1 recipe Snappy Chocolate Topping or 1 (7 to 8-ounce) bottle store bought magic shell
- 1 quart of another flavour ice cream of choice, we used mint chip
- 1 recipe Soft Chocolate Ripple
- 1 recipe Cream Frosting or 1 (8-ounce) container whipped topping, thawed per manufacturer’s instructions
The morning before serving, place a 9-inch cake ring on a parchment-lined baking sheet in the freezer for at least 2 hours. Working quickly, tear the container off the vanilla ice cream. Use a large, sturdy knife to cut the ice cream into thick but manageable slices, the broader the better. Without letting the ice cream soften, firmly pack it into the prepared metal ring in an even layer, without air pockets. Freeze until completely hard, around 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
In a medium bowl, stir the wafer crumbs into the Snappy Chocolate Topping until the crumbs are uniformly damp. Again working quickly, pull cake ring from the freezer, then spread the Soft Chocolate Ripple mixture over the vanilla ice cream. Press the coated crumbs over the chocolate. Freeze for another hour to set.
As before, remove the next flavour of ice cream from its packaging. Cut the ice cream into slices and fit these pieces into a compacted layer on top of the crumb layer. Freeze the cake in its pan, covered with cling film, overnight (or up to a few days).
The day of serving, unmold the cake by warming the metal ring with a cooking torch, then slipping it up and off the cake. Refreeze the cake for 30 minutes to set the surface. Decorate as desired with Cream Frosting. If piping any decorations, first coat the cake with a base layer that covers the ice cream. Let this firm up in the freezer, and then pipe. This way all the frills and swags will have better footing upon which to adhere.
SNAPPY CHOCOLATE TOPPING
Using refined coconut oil means the finished topping will have less of a coconut taste, making it more accommodating in regards to flavour pairings and use. If that’s not a concern, feel free to use virgin instead. Makes about 1 cup.
- 5.25 ounces best-quality dark chocolate, chopped
- 3.5 ounces refined coconut oil
- 1/8 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
In a small saucepan over low heat, or a microwave-safe container, combine the chocolate, coconut oil and salt. Melt the mixture gently, stirring often, until liquid. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use. If the mixture hardens, melt again. It should be pourable but not at all hot when combined with the cookies. Makes enough for 1 cake.
SOFT CHOCOLATE RIPPLE
- 5 ounces best-quality dark chocolate, chopped
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
- 1/4 cup (5 ounces) heavy (35%) cream
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Place the chocolate and corn syrup in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the heavy cream to barely below a simmer. Pour the cream over the chocolate and leave, undisturbed, for 5 minutes. Add the vanilla extract. Starting from the centre, stir the cream into the chocolate and syrup until smooth. Set aside at room temperature, stirring regularly, until thick and spreadable.
Double the recipe for more elaborate decorating. Makes about 3 cups.
- 1 1/2 cups (approximately 30 ounces) heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons superfine sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin
- 2 tablespoons milk
Pour the whipping cream into a bowl along with the sugar and vanilla. Beat the cream to firm peaks.
In a small saucepan, soak the gelatin in the milk. Once soaked, heat the gelatin over low heat until it melts and the mixture is smooth. Working quickly but gently, fold the gelatin into the whipped cream. Use immediately as is, or tinted with gel or paste food colours.
I know that summer has passed
and I’m meant to be thinking of fall.
Of fires and sweaters and warm coloured leaves.
Of apples and pears and vegetables with girth.
Of braises and roasts
and drinks made with whiskey.
But I’m sorta mourning summer.
I’ve been travelling a lot lately, and with that,
one season sorta glides silently to next.
There’s good and bad in that.
The travel itself has been amazing,
inspiring in a way,
that for me, little else is.
At the same time I also feel like I kind of missed Canada’s fairest season.
And I’m a season late in posting Suvi’s tarts.
But I’m actually happy to talk about them now.
She sent her photos and words when the sun was still high,
when wild blueberries were plentiful, both in Finland and Canada.
So while I’ve got to wait until next year to make her tarts,
I like that they are her lovely words are a reminder of just how magical the close to summer can be.
So with that, FOR THE LOVE OF PIE — a series that celebrates the simple things
with Suvi Viitanen and her Summer Berry Tarts.
Summer berry tarts with whipped yogurt cream and lemon curd. These are perfect for those relaxed high summer days when the season starts to lean towards autumn but there are still plenty of ripe berries and fruits. I find blueberries very nostalgic; they have the taste of summer but you can feel the air changing crisper and see the nature starting to fade it’s colours.
In western Finland. My family has a summer house by the ocean and my better half’s family has their summer house by the lake so we are always around water in the summertime. I practically grew up in the ocean so it has a really special place in my heart. We picked wild blueberries from the forest and enjoyed these tarts by the dock. But you don’t really need water to have these. Just warm, sunny weather, ripe berries and people close to you to share them with.
I chose to make these because I love this time of year and I have an addiction for picking blueberries. Though you can practically make these from any berry or fruit and I like recipes that are versatile. You can also switch the yogurt cream mixture to crème fraîche, mascarpone or even for a good scoop of vanilla ice cream. These tarts are also really simple to make: they don’t need many ingredients or equipments and that’s perfect for a summer house kitchen. In the summer I don’t fuss with food, it has to be good, simple and seasonal.
BEST SERVED WITH?
When the fruits are ripe and scented. When the air smells like a mixture of harvest, dried up summer flowers, ripening fruits and hot air. When you have dear people and friends around you and you feel the need to serve them something delicious and simple. I’d pair this with coffee spiced up with cardamom because I really adore blueberries and cardamom together. But I wouldn’t rule out sparkling wine or maybe a little bit of really, really cold Limoncello.
ONE OR TWO THINGS?
I love everything creative. I drew and painted throughout my childhood, then went to study art where I changed my way of creating to photography. And I’m still on the path of learning and loving every second of it.
Berry tarts with whipped yogurt cream and lemon curd
Serves 8-10 people. Or maybe just 5, depends how much you like them.I used ready made puff pastry as a base, added in lemon curd, fresh blueberries and a mixture of whipped cream and Greek yogurt. I like the little sourness that yogurt gives to the cream, it goes well with wild blueberries and the really sweet lemon curd.
- 500 grams of ready-made puff pastry sheets (5 pieces) or one whole sheet
- 1 cup of heavy cream
- 3-4 tbs of thick Greek yogurt
- 1 jar of ready-made lemon curd
- 2 cups or more of fresh blueberries or/and fresh berries of your choice
- Fresh mint
- Preheat your oven to 450F/225C, take out your baking tray and line it with a piece of baking paper. Take out the frozen puff pastry sheets and place them over baking paper to thaw. When puff pastry has thawed, prick your sheets with a fork and if you like extra golden tarts, brush them with egg wash or milk. Bake in the oven until puffed, crispy and golden. Let them cool while you whip the cream.
- Whip up the heavy cream to a fairly firm state and mix in the Greek yogurt, tasting as you go so it's to your taste. To this mixture you can add in vanilla or sugar if you like things on the sweeter side, but remember that lemon curd is quite sweet.
- Spread 1-2 tbs of lemon curd onto each puff pastry tart (or if you use one big, spread a thin layer of lemon curd on top). Add yogurt cream mixture on top of lemon curd and spread it freely. Top very generously with blueberries and garnish with fresh mint. Cut into squares and serve.
It’s been a while, hi!
How are things?
I’m happy to be back here,
happy to be talking cherries
I think cherries are sorta summer’s comfort food.
Up there with a cob of corn
and a cone of ice cream.
Perfect in a pie or between layers of a chocolate cake.
Perfect from the passenger seat of a car.
As kids we’d wait all year for cherries.
I remember the stacked Okanagan Valley crates
lining the edges of roadside stands.
The kinda places we’d pull over the car on our way to the cabin.
All to eat cherries as a snack
and spit the pits onto the passing road.
It feels like yesterday.
But here I am rambling on about
cherries and childhood,
when I should be introducing
Yossy and her Sweet Cherry Pie.
In my books, Yossy’s a bit of an authority on pies,
her blog APT2 Baking Co is just one of those places
that’ll make you feel like baking.
One of those places on the internet
that’s worth coming back to.
And with that, FOR THE LOVE OF PIE — a series that celebrates the simple things
with Yossy Arefi and her Sweet Cherry Pie.
Sweet Cherry Pie
I’m from Seattle, live in Brooklyn, and love to eat pie anywhere. Preferably outside.
Summertime is pie season and there’s nothing better than tucking the season’s finest fruit into a buttery, flaky crust. Tart cherries work best for pie, but they are around for such a short time (and are hard to find in some places) so I’ve used sweet cherries with a generous amount of lemon juice here which does the job just fine.
BEST SERVED WITH?
A scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream enriched with creme fraîche.
ONE OR TWO THINGS?
Magical summers in the Pacific Northwest. Campari and soda with lots of ice.
for the love of pie: yossy arefi
- 1. In a large bowl, mix the flours, salt and sugar together. Add in the butter and quickly rub it into the flour mixture with your fingers. You want the butter to break up into small pieces ranging from the size of peas to lima beans.
- 2. Combine the water and apple cider vinegar in a measuring cup. Make a well in the flour/butter mixture and slowly stream ½ cup of water into the dough while mixing gently. Mix until the water is evenly distributed and the dough holds together when you squeeze it. It may look dry, and that's okay, just as long as it holds together when you squeeze it. If it is too dry, add more water, one tablespoon at a time.
- 3. Dump the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap, gather the wrap tightly around the dough and refrigerate it for at least an hour, or overnight.
- 4. After it has chilled, unwrap the dough and place it onto a lightly floured board. Pat the dough into a rough square, then roll it into an 8'' x 11'' rectangle. The dough will be a bit rough and crumbly and that's okay! With the long side of the dough facing you, gently fold the dough into thirds. Then turn the dough so the seam is at the top and parallel to your body. Repeat this process 2 more times then divide the dough in half and wrap the each piece in plastic and chill for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days before using. I always chill my dough overnight before using it.
- In a large bowl, rub the lemon zest and vanilla bean seeds into the sugar, then add the rest of the ingredients and toss gently to combine. Start with four tablespoons of flour and If the mixture looks extremely juicy, add in the extra tablespoon of flour.
TO ASSEMBLE & BAKE
- Preheat oven to 400º
- 1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one piece of the dough into a 12'' (rough) circle about 1/8'' thick and place it into a 9 or 10 inch pie pan. Place in the fridge while you prepare the rest of the pie. Prepare the filling while the dough chills.
- 2. Fill the chilled pie shell with the cherry mixture and roll out the second crust. Top the pie with the second crust, trim the edges, then crimp the edges and cut a few vents. Alternately, you can cut the second crust into strips and weave a lattice top.
- 3. Slide the whole pie into the fridge or freezer for about 15 minutes before you bake it to firm up the crust. When you are ready to bake, carefully and gently brush the top of the pie with a beaten egg and sprinkle with a healthy dose of coarse sugar.
- 4. Put the pie on a baking sheet to catch any drips and bake for 15 minutes on the lowest rack of your oven, then lower the oven temp to 375º and bake for 35-45 minutes or until the crust is deep golden brown and the juices bubble. Cool completely before serving.
photos: yossy arefi
For me, there’s something about
the perfect golden of pan-fried chicken.
Something about the crisp of the skin
and tender dark meat that makes up the leg.
Something about the way it glistens when it’s just done.
And there’s something about a chicken pot pie too.
And so when I asked Alice to take part in my
for the love of pie series
and she and Maria set on the path
to make just that, I was instantly smitten.
I love how it turned out.
Like so many of the photos Alice takes these days,
and as I’m learning, much of Maria’s food,
I wish I were in the room when it was happening.
And with that, I give you FOR THE LOVE OF PIE — a series that celebrates the simple things,
With Alice Gao + María del Mar Sacasa and their Chicken Pot Pie with Cheddar Biscuit Topping.
Alice Gao and María del Mar Sacasa
Chicken Pot Pie with Cheddar Biscuit Topping
New York, NY
My earliest memories of chicken pot pie are from the frozen aisle at the supermarket. For me, they were always a huge treat because our normal dinner fare was Chinese food. I still consider them an indulgent treat nowadays. Maria’s version with a biscuit top makes them feel more accessible.
My mother makes the most luscious chicken pot pie: a double, flaky, cream cheese-laced crust with a velvet cream sauced filling full of poached chicken, mushrooms, carrots, and her special “sazón,” as we say – a gift for cooking deliciously. The pie was made mostly on special occasions, and leftovers were often fought over. For many years, I made that very same pot pie, but as I became a more confident cook, I started changing things here and there, making a version of the dish that I hope will be as beloved as my mother’s. This recipe is constantly in flux. While I most commonly make this pie during the cold months for its hearty nature, I do like to root around farmers’ markets and use whatever I find there to make a year-round dish—we need a hearty, comforting meal, regardless of the weather, no? This version contains ramps, those ephemeral gifts of spring, as well as emerald green fresh peas. For a more rustic backbone, the chicken is browned in a skillet, and the vegetables sautéed in the same pan to make sure all the brown bits rendered are not wasted. The topping is cheddar biscuits, that are perfect for sopping up the sauce.
BEST SERVED WITH:
A herb salad and a chilled glass of white wine.
ONE OR TWO THINGS:
The cool side of a pillow in summer.
I love the smell of a new book and of an old one.
A long lunch that stretches out into dinner.
The sound of wind in palm trees.
Ramps are wild onions available briefly during the spring. The small bulbs have slender pink stalks fade into green at the top. Their flavour is unmistakably sharp. Green garlic is garlic that has been harvested young, prior to the cloves maturing. It is similar in appearance to scallions, but has much more assertive flavour. Should you not be able to find ramps or green garlic, substitute with 3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped. Using warm milk will help it incorporate into the butter and flour mixture (roux) more easily. For easy assembly, prepare the biscuit dough up to 1 day in advance and store it, tightly wrapped in plastic, in refrigerator. When chicken filling is about 15 minutes away from being done, bake the biscuits. Serves 6.
CHICKEN POT PIE with CHEDDAR BISCUIT TOP (María del Mar Sacasa)
For the Filling
- 1 (4-pound) chicken, cut into 4 pieces, or 4 pounds chicken parts
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 8 ounces small red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into ½-inch cubes
- 8 ounces small carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 10 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter
- 4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, tops thinly sliced
- 8 ramps or green garlic, chopped (see notes)
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
- 1 cup fresh or frozen green peas
- ¼ cup all-purpose flour
- 2 cups whole milk, warm (see notes)
For the Biscuit Topping
- 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting counter
- 4 ounces grated sharp white cheddar cheese
- 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
- 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon baking soda
- 2 ounces unsalted butter, cut into thin slices and chilled
- ¾ cup buttermilk, chilled
- 1 large egg yolk
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- For the Filling:
- Heat oil in large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Pat chicken pieces down with paper towels and season with salt and pepper, rubbing some of the seasoning under the skin. Cook the chicken pieces, skin-side down, until skin is crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces, reduce heat to medium and cook until chicken registers 155°F on an instant-read thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to a large plate and allow to rest until cool to the touch. Meanwhile, place potatoes and 1 teaspoon salt in small saucepan and add enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain potatoes and reserve.
- Bring fresh water to boil over medium-high heat in now empty saucepan. Add carrots and 2 teaspoons salt and simmer over medium heat until crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Drain carrots and reserve. Remove and reserve the chicken skins. Shred the chicken into bite size pieces and discard the bones. Reserve in large bowl. Discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Add 2 tablespoons butter to skillet and melt over medium-high heat. Cook mushrooms, ramps, and shallots until mushrooms are golden, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in thyme and rosemary. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to bowl with chicken.
- Melt additional 2 tablespoons butter in now empty skillet and cook potatoes and carrots until golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl with chicken. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in now empty skillet over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, until pale golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly and steadily, whisk in the warm milk. Continue to whisk until mixture is smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the reserved chicken mixture and peas, making sure everything is coated with sauce. If the sauce seems a bit thick, add a little more milk. Bring mixture to a simmer and cook just until heated through.
- For the Biscuits:
- Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425°F. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine flour, cheese, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in large bowl. Using two dinner knives tips of forefinger and thumb to work the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and stir with sturdy rubber spatula or wooden spoon just until combined. If mixture looks very dry, add more buttermilk, 2 teaspoons at a time.
- Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead just until it comes together, no more than 6 to 8 times. Press the dough into a 3/4-inch thick disc. Use a 2 to 3-inch floured biscuit cutter to stamp out biscuits and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. Whisk yolk and cream together in small bowl and brush over tops of biscuits. Bake until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack and immediately arrange biscuits on top of pot pie. Serve immediately.
Photos: Alice Gao Food: María del Mar Sacasa
Rhubarb first arrives from greenhouses here.
The leaves are an awkward yellow
and the stems are a thin,
It’s too cold to be grown outside then,
but even still it brings with it
the feeling of spring.
In Chez Panisse Fruit,
Alice Waters writes that,
rhubarb is the vegtable bridge between tree fruits of winter and summer,
and I’ve always liked that.
I love the idea that it’s a vegetable
that carries us
to the glory of spring.
We made rhubarb the topic of our day a couple months ago now.
It was once winter had ended
but spring had yet to really begin.
When the days were still short, but starting to get longer.
When the winter light still lingered
but the bright of spring was just peeking in.
When I was longing to throw away my woollen socks.
See you soon.
PS: This tart is a bit of a doozy by way of steps, but it’s worth it. It’s not hard perse, just a little labour intense. You can make the dough and the rhubarb a day ahead, you could even bake the crust a day ahead if you wanted, just be sure to store it in a airtight container. The crust is a traditional Pâte Sucrée from Michel Roux, the Panna Cotta is from David Lebowitz and the rhubarb is a slight adaptation from MSL. And you can find a rectangle tart pan here. Please also note, you will likely find you have leftovers of each component of this recipe. The rhubarb if there is any left, is great for snacking on, but won’t keep well for more than a day or so. The remaining tart dough can be well wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for up to a week (it freezes well too). And the panna cotta should be set in a small ramekin or dish and served within a couple days.
this bakery in montreal
these violet caramels are delicious, find them here
the feeling of summer
this beach towel (via)
photos: michael graydon + nikole herriott
panna cotta + rhubarb tart
Pâte Sucrée (michel roux)
- 250 gr (1 3/4 cup) all purpose flour
- 100 gr unsalted butter, cubed & slightly softened
- 100 gr confectioners' sugar, sifted
- pinch of salt
- 2 medium eggs, at room temperature
- 1 egg white, whisked
Panna Cotta (david lebowitz)
- 1 vanilla bean, scraped
- 250mL 10% cream
- 750mL 35% cream
- 25 gram sheet gelatin
Vanilla Bean Rhubarb (slightly adapted from MSL)
- 2 cups granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup water
- 1 cup brandy
- 1 vanilla bean, scraped
- 1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
- juice of half a lemon
- CRUST: Place the flour in a mound on the counter, make a well and place the butter, confectioners' sugar and salt inside and mix together. Gradually draw the flour into the centre and mix with the fingertips, until the dough becomes grainy. Again, make a well and then add the eggs. Use your fingertips to bring the dough together. When it is well amalgamated, knead it a few times with the palm of your hand until smooth. Roll the dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and rest in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours or overnight.
- TO MAKE SHELL: Roll dough to approximately 3mm (1/4 inch) thick and line a 13 3/4" x 4 1/2" rectangular tart pan. Cut off excess and save for another use. Chill for 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F/180°C. Prick the base lightly and bake blind, parchment lined with beans or weights for 20-30 minutes or lightly golden. Remove paper and beans and bake until crust looks dry to the touch and is an even light golden. Remove from oven, brush with egg white and return to the oven until it is just dry. Let cool completely.
- RHUBARB: Bring granulated sugar and water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cook, undisturbed, until light amber. Remove from heat; add 3/4 cup brandy, scraped contents of vanilla bean, and salt. Return mixture to a boil for 1 minute, then stir in rhubarb. Remove pan from heat, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and remaining 1/4 cup brandy, re-cover, and let stand for 20 minutes more. Refrigerate until cold, about 4 hours or overnight. Strain and set aside. (The strained liquid can be spooned over each slice as is or reduced and poured over the entire tart, though neither is necessary.)
- PANNA COTTA: Warm the cream over medium heat with the contents of the vanilla bean until steaming. Remove from heat, cover and let steep overnight (optional). Strain cream and heat with the sugar on medium high until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Soften 25g (approximately six sheets) in a liter of cold water for 5 to 10 minutes. Wring the sheets out and stir them into the warm panna cotta mixture in until dissolved. Let cool slightly then pour carefully into prepared crust. I like to place crust on a parchment lined pan in the refrigerator before pouring in the panna cotta, this makes it so you don't have to transfer it after the shell is filled. It should take 2-4 hours to set, depending on your refrigerator. For the crust to remain crispy the tart should be served the day it is made. It will keep in the refrigerator covered for a few days but the crust will soften. Arrange strained rhubarb evenly atop the panna cotta and serve immediately.
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