More days than not, Tara and I talk about food.
We talk about porridge and grain and how flaky biscuits can be.
We talk about writing a good recipe (She’s working on her first book! With biscuits included.)
and what we’re making that day.
We talk about ice cream and cake and just about everything in between.
And we also talk about making more time to work together.
And so as a start of things to come,
find Tara’s recipe for RASPBERRY APPLE CRUMBLE.
It’s cold here still,
so while we’re actually really yearning for spring,
crumble still seems to fit.
It’s perfect day-of warm, with a dollop of cream
but it’s also great for travelling.
Let it rest overnight before cutting into wide slices
and wrapping snuggly in plastic wrap.
I so like the idea of crumble for dessert and then crumble the next day at lunch.
RASPBERRY & APPLE CRUMBLE by Tara O'Brady
I make a crumble almost every March. Not always with fresh fruit — at this time of year we’re still waiting for the snow to melt and the first forced rhubarb at the market — but often out of frozen berries, in an attempt to conjure up that springtime feeling.
This crumble tucks raspberries with storage apples underneath an intentionally-generous cover of oat streusel. It is without cinnamon, or nutmeg, or any of those wintery spices, instead fragrant with vanilla and drops of almond extract. The filling has a scant amount of sugar and a good amount of lemon juice, so the raspberries retain their twang and keep the whole business bright.
As a bonus while it bakes, the crumble makes the house smell like cookies and jam. It’s a fine way to say goodbye to the cold.
- 3/4 cup / 170 g unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan
- 1/2 cup / 100 g granulated sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
- 1/8 teaspoon almond extract
- 1 1/2 cups / 150 g large-flake oats
- 1 1/4 cups / 160 g all-purpose flour
- Juice from half a lemon, about 2 tablespoons
- 2 1/4 pounds / 1 kg mixed baking apples, about five apples, see note
- 1/3 cup / 66 g granulated sugar
- 2 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 1/4 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
- 1 plump vanilla bean, split down its length
- 1 1/4 pounds / 566 g frozen raspberries
- Sweetened sour cream, whipped crème fraîche, pouring cream, custard (hot or cold) or ice cream
- Preheat an oven to 375°F / 190° C with the rack in the lower third. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Make the streusel. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attached, cream together the butter sugar, salt and almond extract on medium-high speed until fluffy, around 2 minutes. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and turn the machine to low. Tip in the oats and flour all at once, and let the machine run until the dry ingredients are incorporated and the mixture is in medium to small clumps, 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Set aside in a cool spot or covered in the fridge while you get on with the filling.
- Grease a 3-quart capacity baking dish with butter. Pour the lemon juice into a large bowl. Peel, core and slice the apples thinly. Add the slices to the bowl as they are cut, turning them in the juice to prevent browning.
- In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch with sugar, salt and seeds scraped from the vanilla bean, reserving the pod. Sprinkle the mixture over the apples and and toss gently until the dry ingredients look to disappear. Carefully fold in the raspberries. Tumble the fruit into the prepared baking dish and tuck in the vanilla bean. Crumble the streusel over the filling in a fairly even layer. Place the dish on the lined baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven until the streusel is golden and the juices are bubbling thickly, around 45 minutes. Let stand at least 15 minutes before serving.
- NOTE: Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Russet, Pink Cripps, Mutsus are all excellent for baking.
- Crumbles are ideal for using up just-about-overripe fruit or whatever flours are left in the baking cupboard. That said, keep proportion in mind; for this intentionally streusel-heavy recipe that means the topping is almost half the weight of the filling. And for the streusel itself, it is an approximate ratio, again by weight, of 1 part butter to 1 part oats to 1 part flour. Keeping that overall balance in mind, I’ll often add alternative flours to the streusel, say whole wheat, buckwheat or spelt for a portion of the all-purpose. Blackberries or rhubarb can be swapped in for some of the fruit, adjusting the sugar accordingly.
- Enough for 6 to 8 servings.
We’re updating, watch for new items tonight at 7pm EST.
In the meantime, find our newsletter signup here.
Like us on facebook,
follow along on instagram
and check out HG around the internet, here.
Last spring we started stocking Sue’s bowls.
Then this past December
we expanded the line to carry her
wide pasta bowls,
side plates, dinner plates
Then, this past weekend Michael and I
set aside a couple hours to take pictures of them.
Sue’s work makes taking pictures easy.
We’re updating this coming week, watch for new items (and new shop photos) at 6pm EST on March 5th!
Sign up for the list here. Like us on facebook, follow along on instagram and check out HG around the internet, here.
Photos: Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott
To me, the best kind of cake marks celebration.
Big or small, it’s an exclamation point on time well spent.
Nostalgic and celebratory at once.
I don’t know why exactly,
but this one, the chocolate chip mint, (recipe below)
makes me feel ten again.
With a fondness for swing sets and birthday parties and backyard pools.
For watermelon slices (with seeds) and summers gone by.
For punch through straws and cheezies in a bowl.
For paper plates and plastic forks and eating lunch outside.
And for cake, simply for the sake of it.
Photo by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott, food & recipe by Tara O’Brady all for Kinfolk Magazine
Recipe by Tara O'Brady for Kinfolk magazine. Slightly adapted for use here by Tara.
Making an ice cream cake takes consideration. A good freezer is essential, along with generous lead-time, and there’s a case for using store bought ice cream—while homemade has its merits, the multiple components here would require an exceptional amount of stirring, chilling and churning, and that’s before we even get to the cake’s assembly. What’s more, store bought ice cream is more forgiving to work with than homemade when it comes to refreezing solidly. Still, don’t dawdle.
Makes a 9-inch cake (photographed cake is smaller)
- 1 quart vanilla ice cream
- 9 ounces chocolate wafer cookies, crushed to crumbs in a food processor
- 1 recipe Snappy Chocolate Topping or 1 (7 to 8-ounce) bottle store bought magic shell
- 1 quart of another flavour ice cream of choice, we used mint chip
- 1 recipe Soft Chocolate Ripple
- 1 recipe Cream Frosting or 1 (8-ounce) container whipped topping, thawed per manufacturer’s instructions
The morning before serving, place a 9-inch cake ring on a parchment-lined baking sheet in the freezer for at least 2 hours. Working quickly, tear the container off the vanilla ice cream. Use a large, sturdy knife to cut the ice cream into thick but manageable slices, the broader the better. Without letting the ice cream soften, firmly pack it into the prepared metal ring in an even layer, without air pockets. Freeze until completely hard, around 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
In a medium bowl, stir the wafer crumbs into the Snappy Chocolate Topping until the crumbs are uniformly damp. Again working quickly, pull cake ring from the freezer, then spread the Soft Chocolate Ripple mixture over the vanilla ice cream. Press the coated crumbs over the chocolate. Freeze for another hour to set.
As before, remove the next flavour of ice cream from its packaging. Cut the ice cream into slices and fit these pieces into a compacted layer on top of the crumb layer. Freeze the cake in its pan, covered with cling film, overnight (or up to a few days).
The day of serving, unmold the cake by warming the metal ring with a cooking torch, then slipping it up and off the cake. Refreeze the cake for 30 minutes to set the surface. Decorate as desired with Cream Frosting. If piping any decorations, first coat the cake with a base layer that covers the ice cream. Let this firm up in the freezer, and then pipe. This way all the frills and swags will have better footing upon which to adhere.
SNAPPY CHOCOLATE TOPPING
Using refined coconut oil means the finished topping will have less of a coconut taste, making it more accommodating in regards to flavour pairings and use. If that’s not a concern, feel free to use virgin instead. Makes about 1 cup.
- 5.25 ounces best-quality dark chocolate, chopped
- 3.5 ounces refined coconut oil
- 1/8 teaspoon fine-grained sea salt
In a small saucepan over low heat, or a microwave-safe container, combine the chocolate, coconut oil and salt. Melt the mixture gently, stirring often, until liquid. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use. If the mixture hardens, melt again. It should be pourable but not at all hot when combined with the cookies. Makes enough for 1 cake.
SOFT CHOCOLATE RIPPLE
- 5 ounces best-quality dark chocolate, chopped
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
- 1/4 cup (5 ounces) heavy (35%) cream
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Place the chocolate and corn syrup in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the heavy cream to barely below a simmer. Pour the cream over the chocolate and leave, undisturbed, for 5 minutes. Add the vanilla extract. Starting from the centre, stir the cream into the chocolate and syrup until smooth. Set aside at room temperature, stirring regularly, until thick and spreadable.
Double the recipe for more elaborate decorating. Makes about 3 cups.
- 1 1/2 cups (approximately 30 ounces) heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons superfine sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin
- 2 tablespoons milk
Pour the whipping cream into a bowl along with the sugar and vanilla. Beat the cream to firm peaks.
In a small saucepan, soak the gelatin in the milk. Once soaked, heat the gelatin over low heat until it melts and the mixture is smooth. Working quickly but gently, fold the gelatin into the whipped cream. Use immediately as is, or tinted with gel or paste food colours.
We worked outdoors most days in January.
In low sun and long shadows and perfect shades of blue.
Among palms and bananas and really green trees.
In weather that in Toronto, we only get at the very start to spring.
It was the kind of time, around the kind of people,
that make it easy to be grateful.
This is the best honey.
These are some of the prettiest salt bowls.
I’m into these polish colours.
I like the looks of this room.
The photo doesn’t relate per se, it’s one Michael and I took a few months back, but that I really love.
You can find the mustard in this shot, here.
And I’d like to eat this for lunch.
We went to France a couple months ago.
It was when summer had turned to fall here
but when it was unofficially still lingering there.
When the afternoons were almost warm enough for sandals
but the nights chilly enough to turn on the furnace.
There was a fireplace in our kitchen
and a ghost in our bedroom.
There was taxidermy in our living room
and fish pond in our front yard.
There were friends and meals and many bottles of wine.
There were markets and broncantes
and numerous trips to the grocery store.
There were oysters.
There was the best yogurt I’ve ever had (Sweden & Beijing run close 2nd & 3rd mind you)
and some of the best cheese.
There were croissants and religieuses
and a good lot of canelés.
There too, was a truckload of Rosé.
And perhaps most exciting of all,
there was baguette delivery
and hunting for hare.
The latter, something I’ve always dreamt of doing (more on that soon).
And the former, somehow one of the the best surprises to date.
There were roadside stands selling cepes,
old men selling honey,
and chickens with their heads in the grocery store.
And hands down, there were the most beautiful butcher shops on earth.
There was cognac and chocolate
and the kind of magic
that only comes from getting lost.
It was amazing.
Plus, a few things I like:
the second photo in this post
the the wall in this photo
red and pink together
and this sweatshirt
Photos: Michael Graydon
archive / rss